Pilos is a pretty little town built up a hill
on the south coast of the bay of Navarino. Snow-white two-storey houses
with courtyards drenched in flowers. The arcaded streets make you think
you've been transported to an island.
The main square ringed with pastry shops is
sheltered by humongous, centuries-old plane trees. The Turko-Venetian
fortress, known as Neokastro, dominates the west side of town. One of
the most attractive in the Peloponnese, it is called that to distinguish
it from the ancient fortress to the southwest, named Paliokastro or
Palionavarino. The bay of Voidolkilia extends from the base of the old
castle. A tranquil, carefree sanctuary, the floor of the bay is covered
with a thick layer of sand. A the southernmost tip of the west coast of
the Peloponnese lies Methoni. In the town are some enormous Venetian
wells whose marble rims are furrowed by the pressure of huge ropes over
the centuries. Homer called Methoni "rich in vines" and tradition
maintains that the town is so called because the donkeys (onoi) carrying
its wine used to ged drunk (methoun), from the heady aroma. You enter
the castle by crossing a massive bridge, impressed by the gigantic
walls, imposing bastions and monumental gates. To the south another
bridge unites the citadel with the Bourtzi, a fortified islet with
casemates and towers. But there's much more to see in Messiness.
Finikounda is a picturesque fishing village at
the back of a bay. Caiques and fishing boats are drawn up all along its
sandy shore, while its tavernas serve their fresh catch to little tables
at the water's edge.
The road winds like a vast serpent slowly
amidst lush fields to arrive at Koroni. Its medieval atmosphere is
imprinted in its old mansions, its churches and its castle. Still,
diaphanous water, sandy beaches and opposite the little island of
Venetiko with its enchanting beach.
From its hilltop site the Venetian citadel
crowns the town. A proper eagle's nest, with thick walls and massive
gates, it cuts a powerful and magnificent figure. Below the fortress in
a little palm grove is a small building housing Koroni's collection of
historical and archaeological artefacts. The beauty of the area,
unchecked, unbroken, is a constant surprise.
Petalidi juts out from the head of a little
bay. The sandy or pebbly beaches round about are shallow and sheltered
from the wind. And surrounded by banana trees. What would you remember
first about this place? Here, there, everywhere are souvenirs and
expensive gifts. |